Carbine to Pistol Transition: The Skill That Keeps You in the Fight
- Rick Hogg
- 4 hours ago
- 6 min read
Words Matter: Transition vs Target Index
If you train with me long enough, you’ll hear me say it until it’s annoying: verbiage matters.
When I’m shooting multiple targets, I call that target indexing. When I go from firing a carbine to firing a pistol, I call that a transition.
Why do I care? Because sloppy language creates sloppy thinking, and sloppy thinking becomes sloppy reps. A “transition” isn’t some cool range flex. It’s a decision you make when the carbine is no longer the right tool in that moment, malfunction, empty gun, or some other problem, especially at close distance.
That means this isn’t just a gun-handling skill. It’s a problem-solving skill with consequences.
The Reality Check: Your Times Decide Your Options
A transition is about time and distance, not ego.
Here’s how I look at it: at close distance I know I have about a 1.2-second draw, but my carbine speed magazine change is about 3 seconds. And if a person can cover 21 feet in about 1.5 seconds, you don’t have time to get cute. Transitioning to the handgun may be the better option.
That’s not theory. That’s why we measure.
If you don’t know your times, you’re making decisions based on feelings. Feelings don’t survive pressure.
This War HOGG Tactical Skill Builder: Simple Drill, Honest Data
Setting goals and having a solid training plan are key to improving marksmanship, and the War HOGG Tactical skill builders are designed to be as indoor-range friendly as possible while still driving performance.
The last couple months built off the War HOGG Self Eval, and this month blends skill sets we’ve already trained: the carbine low-ready presentation and the draw from the holster.
Here’s the drill.
Head to the range and conduct 10 carbine-to-pistol transitions. On the timer, fire one shot with the carbine, transition to your pistol, and fire one shot with the pistol. No warmup, just shoot the drill. This is straight shooting performance on demand, where are your skill right now. There is no warmup in a gunfight.
Then record what matters: your time, marksmanship, target used, and distance, plus notes like poor grip on the draw or fumbling the safety. The notes section is where the truth lives.
The Gear Isn’t the Point - But It Can Break the Rep
Use your normal range and firearms equipment. Use a live-fire range and a safe dry-fire area. Use a shot timer and a way to record video, because video will humble you in a productive way. Track everything in your Firearms Training Notebook so you can build a plan instead of guessing.
Targets are “dealer’s choice.” Don’t overcomplicate it. The target is just the accountability mirror.
Carbine To Pistol Transition: Safety Is Non-Negotiable: Finger Off, SAFE On
Here’s the progression I teach, and it starts with discipline.
Drive the carbine to the target and fire your shot(s). Once you’re done firing, finger off the trigger and place the carbine on SAFE.
And I’m going to say the part that people skip because it’s inconvenient: sometimes your carbine won’t go on safe. A prime example is a failure to fire, the hammer hasn’t re-cocked on an AR-style carbine, and the safety won’t engage.
That’s why you don’t build a transition program that depends on “perfect conditions.” You build one that works when things go wrong.
The Hands Move Together - In Different Directions
Once the carbine is on safe (or you’ve handled the safety limitation appropriately), both hands move simultaneously but in separate directions.
The support hand lowers the carbine, and the strong hand moves to the pistol. The firing hand releases the carbine pistol grip and goes to the holster while the support hand lowers the carbine to the front.
I’m not a fan of “throwing the carbine to the side.” It’s inefficient movement. Efficiency is speed you can repeat.
Sling Reality: When Single-Point Isn’t Your Friend
This is where the real world shows up.
Sometimes single-point slings fail to secure the carbine in a good position for transitioning, and you’ll see shooters needing extra arm movement to swing the gun far enough back to build a proper two-handed pistol grip.
That’s not a “range problem.” That’s a gear problem that becomes a performance problem. The solution is not complaining, it’s testing your setup honestly and adjusting it so the transition is consistent.
Holster Work Still Matters: Don’t “Wing It” on the Draw
Once the firing hand contacts the pistol, you’re back into a draw sequence you should already own.
Establish a good grip, push the hood forward, pull the ALS back, and remove the pistol from the holster. As the pistol clears, orient the muzzle horizontally. By this time, the carbine should be lowered and the support hand should be moving into position to receive the pistol, just like the hands-below-the-waist draw work.
Build the two-handed grip near your ready position, and remember: the ready position is a reference point, not a pause point. Then present and press.
Don’t Rush the Reholster: You Just Bet Your Life on That Pistol
After the pistol shot, don’t act like the rep is over just because the shot broke.
Don’t be in a rush to get the pistol back in the holster. Focus on follow-through and recovery. Your carbine just went down, now you’re betting your life on your pistol.
The fastest way to ruin good training is to rush the administrative parts and get sloppy when you think no one is watching.
Armor and Front-Mounted Kit: Keep the Chest Slick
If your job requires body armor, look at how much equipment you’ve stacked on the front. That can absolutely cause issues during the transition and the pistol draw. I’ve always tried to keep the front of my armor as slick as possible for exactly that reason.
Again: test your real setup. Don’t train in a fantasy configuration and expect it to work when you’re loaded up for work.
What You’re Actually Measuring: Two Data Points That Matter
This drill gives you a clean snapshot and two key shooting performance data points.
One: your draw time from the holster.
Two: your reaction time to the shot timer and low-ready carbine presentation.
That’s valuable because a lot of shooters want to blame the draw when the real issue was the first movement, or the carbine presentation, or the decision-making moment where they hesitated.
Data removes excuses.
Build the Dry-Fire Training Plan: Average Time, Par Time, Precision
Start by running the 10 reps and recording your average time. Then title a new page in your notebook: “Carbine to Pistol Transition” (or just “Transition”).
Take your average time and add 0.25 to 0.50 seconds to set an initial par time. As you start making good dry trigger presses and your sights are on target at or below par, reduce the par in 0.05 to 0.10 second increments until you find your best personal performance.
Don’t get wrapped up in what others are doing for time. This is your firearms journey, and you’ll get there with consistent effort in dry fire.
This is how we live “Be 1% Better Every Day.” Not with motivational quotes, by doing measurable work.
Check Your Work: Re-Shoot and Prove Improvement
Near the end of the month, head back out and re-shoot the 10 transitions. Compare results to your first session. If you put in the dry fire work, you should see improvement.
If you didn’t improve, don’t panic. That’s just feedback. It means your dry fire plan wasn’t targeting the real friction point, or your reps weren’t honest, or your gear setup is stealing efficiency.
Fix the right thing.
Night Capability: If You Have NVGs, Train at Night
The transition works in daylight and at night under night vision. If you’re night vision capable, you have to take the time to train at night.
Low light changes what you can see, how fast you can verify, and how clean your movement is. Don’t discover that gap when it matters.
Accountability: Training Alone Is Easy to Lie About
Accountability matters. Yes, you can train on your own, but a shooting partner, tribe, or group will keep you in check.
If you don’t have that, join us. The On The Range Podcast “CREW” member community exists for shooters who want structured improvement, and Mark Kelley and I do interactive breakdowns where we review skill builder work—and sometimes even review video and give immediate feedback on what we see.
That’s how you grow faster: standards, structure, and honest input.
Conclusion: Put In the Dry Fire Work
Carbine-to-pistol transitions aren’t about looking tactical. They’re about solving a problem when the carbine isn’t the right answer in that moment.
Run the drill cold. Record your data. Clean up your safety discipline. Make your hands move together. Fix your sling and your kit so the pistol draw isn’t fighting your gear. Build your dry-fire plan off your average, chase clean reps under par, and then go back and prove the improvement.
Train Hard, Stay Safe, and I’ll see you On The Range - Rick
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